Before posting more ideas for home auto repair, I think it's necessary to get a good grasp on what hand tools will be needed. Many tools can also be used for other projects around the house when something goes wrong.
Essentials to the home mechanic:
Screwdriver set - this is a pretty thorough set that includes an offset - Craftsman Screwdrivers
Pick set - here's a Craftsman set made in USA identical to my Matco - Craftsman 4 Piece set
Plier set - be good to yourself and buy a decent set, these are nice - Plier set
*The plier set is on the steep side but just like a ratchet and socket set, you should only purchase one set in your lifetime. If you want to start with less at a reasonable price, check out Channellock - Channellock Pliers
3/8 Drive ratchet - S-K are my favorite, very high quality and made in USA - S-K Tools
*S-K just went through a transition to new ownership but I believe they will still be made in USA and I hope they maintain their superior quality (be advised they are on the expensive side)
*When buying a ratchet, consider buying two, a ratchet with a longer handle and one with a shorter handle
3/8 Drive socket set that includes 6-point sockets *12-point sockets work for light-duty projects but may strip bolt heads when working with heavy-duty projects at high torque levels
Combination Wrench set - good wrenches won't hurt your hands when using them. I've used Craftsman, Matco(made by Danaher), Snap-on, and Gearwrench(made by Danaher)
Pry bars - go ahead and buy a set that includes lengths from 6" up to 24" *You might not use them all immediately but I promise you'll be glad you have them when you get in a bind
Of course, nobody is going to do real auto repair without lifting the car in the air. The home improvement stores carry floor jacks and stands. I don't have a particular set I'd recommend but I will steer you away from the Torin Aluminum jacks. My old shop owner bought three at a decent price but after a few months of daily use all of them were leaking oil from the main piston seal. As mechanics, we simply took the jacks apart and put new seals in. I don't recommend them because it's always frustrating for a home mechanic to have to stop a project to repair the tools. You shouldn't have to repair your tools, you should be using the tools to make the repair.
*When purchasing your socket and wrench sets, go ahead and buy Metric as well as Standard(fractional) sets. Standard sets should start at 3/8" and go to 3/4" and Metric sets that start at 10mm and go to 18mm (minimum) but most sets include the 19mm.
Tools are an investment. Not only do many people find it rewarding and fun to work on repairs (especially their car) but you can save hundreds, and even thousands of dollars, in the long run while learning something along the way.
Working on your car always involves a learning curve. Projects will often take more time than you think so be sure to give yourself a nice cushion of time in case you get in a bind. Take it slow and pay attention to the details. Rushing through a project can lead to stripped bolt heads or even worse, broken off bolts. This will be a major headache and super frustrating but as always there is a tool to remove broken bolts.
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
Automotive Repair
Here is a tip for the home mechanic:
Notice a roaring noise coming from the car when you're on the highway? Maybe a new noise that doesn't quite sound like the tires? Recently my fathers' car starting doing just this. I hopped in with him and went for a drive. The noise was easily noticeable above 50mph and my diagnosis was easy- after making sure nothing was wrong with the tire, he had a bad wheel bearing.
No reason to worry, (I'm not suggesting you put off wheel bearing replacement if it goes bad) your wheel isn't going to fly off the car. The good news is that wheel bearing replacement is something I would recommend to the DIY mechanic. You've probably never done this at home but here's what I'd tell you to do.
*If your vehicle is front wheel drive, you can easily replace the rear wheel bearing and hub assembly. If your vehicle is rear wheel drive, you can easily replace the front wheel bearing and hub assembly. If you are changing the assembly on the 'drive' wheels it requires more effort but can still be done at home.
1. Go to an automotive parts website (preferably a discount website) or visit your local auto parts store
2. Enter your vehicle year, make, model and any other information needed
3. Search for the wheel bearing/hub assembly
Make sure you order the entire assembly- wheel bearing and hub together.
4. Break the lug nuts loose, don't take them off yet
5. Raise your vehicle (please be safe and always put a jack stand under the car)
6. Remove the loosened lug nuts and take the tire off
7. If you have disc brakes, remove the brake caliper (using a bent clothes hanger to support it is handy, be careful the pads don't drop out), then remove the disc. If you have drum brakes, remove the drum or hat as some like to call it- you'll want to make sure your parking brake is off in either case if you're replacing the rear assembly
8. Underneath the car, look at the back side of the hub. Most likely you'll see four (sometimes five) bolt heads. Remove these bolts. *Some vehicles will have holes in the front of the hub for bolt removal. If this is the case for you, turn the hub until the holes align with the bolt heads and remove them.
9. The hub assembly *should* come right out. If it doesn't come off easily, you may encourage it with a dead blow hammer (if you don't already have one, get one- they really are handy) by tapping it side to side. Do NOT do this on DRIVE assemblies, doing so can damage CV joints
10. Hold the new hub assembly flat against the upright, insert the bolts and tighten torque properly
*Replacing the drive wheel bearings requires a large socket that can fit the axle shaft nut. Many home mechanics may not have a socket this size. To remove this nut, place a large (at least 18") pry bar between the lugs to hold the hub, or just have somebody firmly hold the brake pedal. Obviously, you'll need all brake components installed if you do the brake method to remove the nut.
Please look at your vehicle before ordering parts to make sure you are ordering the right thing. Not all vehicles have a 'bolt-in' assembly- Porsches are a perfect example. I regularly serviced Porsche wheel bearings and they are NOT for the home mechanic. They require COMPLETE removal of the entire upright assembly and a shop press to install new bearings.
After reading you may wonder why I didn't tell you to just buy a wheel bearing and replace the bearing. Two reasons: Replacing the bearing alone is actually more work (if you've ever done this before you'll know why) and second, replacing the bearing alone actually requires more tools that a home mechanic may not have. Save yourself the hassle and buy the entire assembly or visit your trusted mechanic to have the work done, but as I've said before, don't let someone rip you off.
If have questions for a specific vehicle, feel free to contact me with questions, I'm always happy to help.
Next Post: Brake replacement
Notice a roaring noise coming from the car when you're on the highway? Maybe a new noise that doesn't quite sound like the tires? Recently my fathers' car starting doing just this. I hopped in with him and went for a drive. The noise was easily noticeable above 50mph and my diagnosis was easy- after making sure nothing was wrong with the tire, he had a bad wheel bearing.
No reason to worry, (I'm not suggesting you put off wheel bearing replacement if it goes bad) your wheel isn't going to fly off the car. The good news is that wheel bearing replacement is something I would recommend to the DIY mechanic. You've probably never done this at home but here's what I'd tell you to do.
*If your vehicle is front wheel drive, you can easily replace the rear wheel bearing and hub assembly. If your vehicle is rear wheel drive, you can easily replace the front wheel bearing and hub assembly. If you are changing the assembly on the 'drive' wheels it requires more effort but can still be done at home.
1. Go to an automotive parts website (preferably a discount website) or visit your local auto parts store
2. Enter your vehicle year, make, model and any other information needed
3. Search for the wheel bearing/hub assembly
Make sure you order the entire assembly- wheel bearing and hub together.
4. Break the lug nuts loose, don't take them off yet
5. Raise your vehicle (please be safe and always put a jack stand under the car)
6. Remove the loosened lug nuts and take the tire off
7. If you have disc brakes, remove the brake caliper (using a bent clothes hanger to support it is handy, be careful the pads don't drop out), then remove the disc. If you have drum brakes, remove the drum or hat as some like to call it- you'll want to make sure your parking brake is off in either case if you're replacing the rear assembly
8. Underneath the car, look at the back side of the hub. Most likely you'll see four (sometimes five) bolt heads. Remove these bolts. *Some vehicles will have holes in the front of the hub for bolt removal. If this is the case for you, turn the hub until the holes align with the bolt heads and remove them.
9. The hub assembly *should* come right out. If it doesn't come off easily, you may encourage it with a dead blow hammer (if you don't already have one, get one- they really are handy) by tapping it side to side. Do NOT do this on DRIVE assemblies, doing so can damage CV joints
10. Hold the new hub assembly flat against the upright, insert the bolts and tighten torque properly
*Replacing the drive wheel bearings requires a large socket that can fit the axle shaft nut. Many home mechanics may not have a socket this size. To remove this nut, place a large (at least 18") pry bar between the lugs to hold the hub, or just have somebody firmly hold the brake pedal. Obviously, you'll need all brake components installed if you do the brake method to remove the nut.
Please look at your vehicle before ordering parts to make sure you are ordering the right thing. Not all vehicles have a 'bolt-in' assembly- Porsches are a perfect example. I regularly serviced Porsche wheel bearings and they are NOT for the home mechanic. They require COMPLETE removal of the entire upright assembly and a shop press to install new bearings.
After reading you may wonder why I didn't tell you to just buy a wheel bearing and replace the bearing. Two reasons: Replacing the bearing alone is actually more work (if you've ever done this before you'll know why) and second, replacing the bearing alone actually requires more tools that a home mechanic may not have. Save yourself the hassle and buy the entire assembly or visit your trusted mechanic to have the work done, but as I've said before, don't let someone rip you off.
If have questions for a specific vehicle, feel free to contact me with questions, I'm always happy to help.
Next Post: Brake replacement
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